This Week's Wow: The First Collection from Pucci's New Creative Director Offers a "Dash of Pop Art Irony"
The Moment: Let’s take a moment to consider all the action taking place at the men’s fashion week events happening in London and Florence this week.
That was a short moment.
Well, it has been a bit quiet this season, hasn’t it? Aside from Katy Perry turning up for the Moschino show at the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence (she also appears in the label’s new ad campaign), the action has remained relevant mostly to those die-hard men’s wear editors who have been enjoying a season of pleasant, if unexceptional, clothes. Christopher Bailey’s lace shirts and suits were the big news from London at a Burberry Prorsum show that was enlivened by the inclusion of several women modeling the designer’s new resort collection.
The exciting news from Florence was actually in women's wear, with a preview event for the first collection for Pucci designed by Massimo Giorgetti, its new creative director. Over the last year, we’ve seen a major turnover of designers at fashion houses, resulting in many exceptional new pairings (Alessandro Michele at Gucci, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski at Hermès, and more), and early signs are that this could be the latest.
Why It’s a Wow: Giorgetti, who is also the designer of the Milan-based label MSGM, replaced Peter Dundas, who moved to Roberto Cavalli and will show his first collection there in September. Giorgetti’s debut for Pucci at the Florence event focused on his women’s wear resort collection, which he called “The Pilot Episode,” playing off of the new golden age of cable television series. He’s evidently hoping his version of Pucci will be picked up for a few seasons at least.
The plot of this show was fairly straightforward: Fun, lively prints (the name of the game at Pucci since forever) and a bit more humor, which has been his specialty at MSGM. According to the notes, “new motifs add a dash of comic strip Pop Art irony.” One print, called the “tourists in Florence,” depicted hordes of tourists wearing tacky outfits and wielding selfie sticks (pictured, above). Giorgetti’s approach worked best when his wit was employed with a more sophisticated, abstract approach, such as a print of paintbrushes tipped in bright colors (pictured, top), and a patchwork fringe coat of long colored threads (pictured, below).
Learn More: Giorgetti’s path to fashion was unusual in that he started his career as a showroom salesman, giving him a greater insight into the commercial side of the business (his MSGM logo was a prime instigator of the 2013 designer sweatshirt craze). You can read more about his background here.