The Salvatore Ferragamo Runway Show Was "A New Start for the Future" According to the Designer
"A lot of feelings emerging from such a sorrowful yet expansive 6 months."
Despite coronavirus restrictions, switches in seasonality, and overall major changes in the fashion industry, the show still went on for many brands in Milan this fashion week. In particular, the Salvatore Ferragamo show took place at the Rotonda Della Besana with a full runway show and a film by Italian director Luca Guadagnino.
According to the show notes, both the collection and the film were inspired by Alfred Hitchcock's The Birds, Marnie, and Vertigo, and evoked the spirit of old Hollywood. All films that the designer Paul Andrews was watching during quarantine.
In an email interview with InStyle, Andrews explains how the pandemic impacted his collection.
“This is the first collection we are showing after the pandemic and it was conceived during lockdown. It was an incredibly difficult moment for everyone and this is why I’m particularly proud of the work my team and I have made during the past few months," he said. "Being out there again, with a Spring fashion show, in a beautiful location like Rotonda della Besana, feels to me like a celebration of life and of nature - with its colors and shapes - and a new start for the future.”
One of the models, Paloma Elsesser, made history for the brand as the first plus-size model to walk in the show. She took to social media to discuss what it was like to make so much history during fashion week, during the coronavirus pandemic.
"What a stupendous honor to be the first chunky to walk @ferragamo ~ a lot of feelings emerging from such a sorrowful yet expansive 6 months," she wrote in the post. "i struggle to celebrate myself in a cognitive way; often rendering accomplishments as ‘fine’ but as a dear friend once said it “you must find ways to be good in the good”... so here i am, proud and excited for the future of fashion to see the value and importance of representation in a real, hopefully; cognitive way."
The collection itself encapsulated the spirit of old Hollywood and in particular Hitchcock's ingenue, Tippi Hedren. It featured suits and dresses with loose silhouttes and simple colors, alongside elegant accessories.
"There are several direct homages to key Hitchcock moments in the collection and the collection echoes that gorgeous, hyper-real level of colour saturation that is so evident in the beautiful Technicolor masterpiece that is Vertigo," Andrews said.