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Ruthie Friedlander
Sep 05, 2018 @ 8:00 am

When it comes to size inclusivity in fashion, slow and steady is the name of the game. We've seen some progress, particularly in the last few seasons, but designers still seem to have trouble producing clothing to fit the majority of American women. As Racked reported in June, Plunkett Research, a company that analyzes industry trends, found that 68 percent of American women wear a size 14 or larger — but exactly how many designers are actually serving that demographic with clothing that fits them?

To shed some light on where the industry stands right now with regards to size inclusivity, we surveyed every designer on the official CFDA calendar, asking designers, publicists, and retail stores what size ranges they actually produce and sell. We sent close to a hundred emails, made dozens of calls, and spent at least one day tromping around Manhattan to poke around in retail stores, all to get a sense of which brands are putting their money where their mouths are and actually creating clothing for the average American woman — and which brands are falling short.

Here's what we found: 

VIDEO: Christian Siriano's 10th Anniversary Show

InStyle

A few things about our survey.

  • We only surveyed designers that could be found on the official CFDA calendar here.
  • We only included women’s ready-to-wear brands (denim and men’s, for example, were excluded).
  • We did not include designers that only create custom clothing or do not sell in retail (like The Blonds).
  • Brands that answered us in European sizes were converted to US sizing using this chart.
  • For brands that size XS-XXL, we used the following conversion: XS= 0, S=2/4, M=6/8, L=10/12, XL=14/16, XXL=18/20. This was based on the average of the designers’ conversion estimations.
  • In the instance that a designer offers extended sizing per request but does not produce it across the majority of their products, we went with the size run they create all pieces in.

Here's how the size offerings break down by brand:

Up to Size 28

Christian Siriano

Up to Size 26

Derek Lam

Up to Size 24

Tadashi Shoji

Vaquera

Up to Size 22

Kith

John Elliott

Prabal Gurung

Up to Size 20

Brandon Maxwell

Marchesa

Libertine

LUAR

Up to Size 18

Chromat

Escada

Up to Size 16

Brock Collection

Carolina Herrera

Chiara Boni la Petite Robe

J. Mendel

Kate Spade New York

Naeem Khan

Oscar de la Renta

Pyer Moss

Ralph Lauren

Veronica Beard

Up to Size 14

BOSS

Jason Wu

Kim Shui

Mansur Gavriel

Michael Kors

Monse

Novis

Nicole Miller

Pamella Roland

Sally Lapointe

The Row

Tory Burch

Yeolee

Zero + Meria Cornejo

Up to Size 12

3.1 Philip Lim

alice + olivia

Anna Sui

Calvin Klein

Calvin Luo

Christian Cowan

Christopher John Rogers

Cinq a Sept

Collina Strada

Diane von Furstenberg

Dennis Basso

Eckhaus Latta

Haus Alkire

Hellessy

Ji Won Choi

Jonathan Simkhai

LaQuan Smith

Mara Hoffman

Marina Moscone

Milly

PH5

Proenza Schouler

rag & bone

Rodarte

Yuna Yang

Zang Toi

Up to Size 10

ADEAM

Area

Claudia Li

Coach

Dion Lee

Gabriela Hearst

Lela Rose

Longchamp

Linder

Marc Jacobs

Noon by Noor

Opening Ceremony 

Self-Portrait

Snow Xue Gao

Tome

Ulla Johnson

Vivienne Tam

Zimmermann
 

Up to Size 8

A Detacher

Moon Choi

Romeo Hunte

The numbers tell a story: the NYFW designers, who arguably set the tone for the entire industry, aren't even making products that most of us can buy. While we take pleasure in reviewing their collections, seeing the new trends, and watching designers express themselves on the runway, one has to ask: who are we doing this all for, anyway? And how do we get to a place where clothing is created for women — all women — to actually wear?

 

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