News Awards & Events Fashion Week Future of Fashion The Future of Fashion Will Be Extravagant The Biggest Trends From Fashion Month The Fashion Month Size Report Is In (And It's Not Great) Stylists' Favorite Trends — And How to Wear Them Where 4 Experts Find Unexpected Fashion Inspiration How a Fashion Editor Packs for Paris Fashion Week A Stylist's Tips for Making Classic Staples Your Own Barbara Bui's Backless Suits Are About to Be Everywhere Everything You Need to Get Ready on the Go Bella Hadid Had a Dress Painted Onto Her Body on the Runway Ryan Gosling Is the New Face of Gucci This Fashion Forward Outfit Formula Gets the MOST Compliments CLOSE Part of Future of Fashion Expect to See Barbara Bui's Backless Suits All Over the Red Carpet — or on 'Emily in Paris' The designer, who skipped hosting a runway show and made a movie instead, tells InStyle all about her sexy-strong Spring '23 collection. By Samantha Sutton Samantha Sutton Instagram Samantha is InStyle's senior fashion editor. She joined the brand in 2019 and oversees the site's fashion coverage, including trend reporting, fashion exclusives, celebrity style interviews, and Fashion Week coverage. InStyle's editorial guidelines Published on October 6, 2022 @ 09:00AM Pin Share Tweet Email Photo: Getty Images/ InStyle While Paris Fashion Week was full of crowds clamoring to get into runway shows and shove their way through presentations, Barbara Bui decided to take a more thoughtful tack. She showcased her Spring 2023 collection through a short film instead, instructing people to view it prior to looking at the pieces up close. Tia Adeola on Creating a Fashion Brand That Breaks the Mold "It’s a way to be more intimate," the French designer tells InStyle, speaking about the film, which was written and directed by singer-songwriter Keren Ann. "It’s not only fashion models — it’s much more human to show it through a movie than a show. In fashion, sometimes, you have the feeling that it’s very superficial, very into appearance. I prefer to be real, to go into the lives of the people and help them express themselves." Bui says the movie — which depicts two actors, posing around a scenic home, wearing the brand's sleek suits and dresses — also helps to "express strengths and softness at the same time," which happens to be the exact theme of her designs. "It’s wearable, but at the same time, you can have a different attitude," Bui tells us, explaining that for spring 2023, her pieces will help fashion lovers show skin in unexpected ways. "Like with a jacket opening in the back — you have the feeling that it’s a normal jacket, but then it's a surprise in the back and completely different." Courtesy It's also not exactly strange for Bui to be marrying fashion and film in this way. Her designs have been seen on plenty of actresses, including Helen Mirren and Emily in Paris' Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu, who was spotted filming in the brand over the summer. Bui's looks also have no trouble taking center stage — literally. "I dress a lot of singers for their concerts because they like to have these very strong colors," she says, explaining that she either gravitates toward bold colors or neutrals, never soft shades. "They can also wear [the suits] in a rock way, not a sophisticated, feminine way. It can be lighter on them." So Many Celebrities Have Been Wearing Suits Lately — Here's How to Shop the Trend Courtesy Still, Bui can picture her spring 2023 designs popping up at Cannes Film Festival, too. "To be different and not be like all the others with puffy dresses!" she jokes. "A lot of my inspiration comes from Bianca Jagger when she was young and married Mick Jagger in a white suit. That’s really my idea of elegance." Courtesy The spring collection also includes a variety of high platform shoes, which Bui says she's a fan of because, when added to any look, they "destroy the appearance of being clean" and spice up an outfit. "You are not so clean, but you are exuberant." You heard it here first: Out with the clean-girl thing and in with exuberance.