Find Out Why The Good Wife's Alicia Florrick Dressed In Neutrals in Season 5, Episode 8 From Costume Designer, Daniel Lawson
The Good Wife's Alicia Florrick (Julianna Margulies) is one month into launching her law firm after leaving Lockhart Gardner (or after last night, The LG) and she is maintaining her bold exterior throughout the tumultuous transition. "I don't think she's quite confident yet," costume designer Daniel Lawson told InStyle.com today. That's why he's keeping her in neutrals until she really gets on her feet, like a gray floral Rena Lange jacket with black Gucci pants, or the black gold zip-front L'Agence jacket with an Alexander McQueen pencil skirt that he dressed her in for last night's episode. "I really think the neutral tones this season are working well for us," Lawson added. "As we move along, we might see a lot more color starting to peek in, but not quite yet." Flip through the gallery to find out what else she wore—including her roomy, versatile black bag.
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Season 5, Episode 22: Style Paris Jacket, Armani Skirt and Boss Blouse
"For the season finale, Alicia wore one look: a custom-made houndstooth suit," says Lawson. "We styled the peplum jacket and pencil skirt with a deep brown blouse that sat in the neckline of the jacket perfectly. The goal was to make Alicia to look perfectly in control and elegant—a look that was completely at odds with what was happening in her personal and business life in the episode."
Season 5, Episode 21: Boss Hugo Boss Dress
"This dress also had wonderful style seams at the side waist that really helped give the seemingly simple shift dress a nice shape," Lawsons says. "I needed several copies of this dress for the events that took place in the scene, namely Alicia getting hit with part of a cream pie by a protester."
Season 5, Episode 21: Andrew Gn Jacket and Dress
"This was a total black and white look all by the same designer," states Lawson.
Season 5, Episode 21: Akris Jacket
"This light blue wool jacket has an asymmetrical exaggerated stand collar which was great for this close-up scene," he says. "I love the way the collar frames Alicia's face!"
Season 5, Episode 21: Reed Krakoff Sweater
"This cream and tan chunky knit wool sweater paired perfectly with a pair of dark washed skinny jeans by Hudson," Lawson states.
Season 5, Episode 21: Style Paris Suit
"The eggplant cashmere and wool suit was custom made just for this episode," says Lawson. "The jacket had a boat neck with a slight stand to it and 3/4 sleeves, and we paired it with a matching eggplant pencil skirt."
Season 5, Episode 21: Armani Jacket
"This tweed collarless jacket stood out because of the pattern, yet still worked for the courtroom," Lawson tells us. "The gray novelty woven geometric print looked great on Alicia."
Season 5, Episode 20: Narciso Rodriguez Jacket
"Alicia wore one outfit throughout this whole episode," says Lawson. "This color block linen jacket was perfect, as it was comfortable enough to be worn for eight straight days of shooting and it carried her character from day to evening very well."
Season 5, Episode 20: Cinzia Rocca Coat
"This green wool coat was the only addition to her outfit during this episode," Lawson states.
Season 5, Episode 19: Red Valentino Jacket
"This black, cream, and gold metallic novelty houndstooth knit zip features a black bow at the nape of the neck and has black edging along the neck center front and bottom," says Lawson. "The jacket also features a double peplum."
Season 5, Episode 19: Vince Sweater
"This was a more casual look for Alicia," Lawson says. "The beige cashmere cardigan sweater features a shawl collar and she wore it with a pair of AG skinny stretch blue jeans."
Season 5, Episode 19: Akris Jacket and Michael Kors Blouse
"This forest green jacket is cashmere. It is double breasted at the top, and then finishes as a single breasted jacket at the waist. The top underneath features pin tucks at the neckline," Lawson shares. "I wanted Alicia to be in color for the scenes at the black-and-white party, but not one that was too strong for business reasons."
Season 5, Episode 19: Elie Tahari Coat
"This tan Elie Tahari single breasted snap front coat had an exaggerated notched lapel and wrist belts," he states.
Season 5, Episode 19: Akris Jacket
"The asymmetric front and stand collar in the back of this tan tweed jacket really brings the focus to her face," Lawson states.
Season 5, Episode 19: Number 35 Dress
"She looked very chic wearing this lavender-raisin colored wool dress," he says. "The boatneck, 3/4 sleeves, and double side vents in the back made the fit of this dress on Julianna simply outstanding."
Season 5, Episode 18: Armani Jacket
"At the start of this episode, her clothing is more comfort wear even though she uses it as work wear. The pieces are all in shades of very neutral grays made of comforting knit fabrics, like this zip-front jacket," says Lawson.
Season 5, Episode 18: Burberry Blouse
"In this episode Alicia begins to pull out of her deep grief, and her wardrobe reflects this," Lawson says. "She starts wearing a little color once she becomes passionate about the major issue she's facing at work, and wears this brighter hued top with epaulets and a self-tie at the front."
Season 5, Episode 18: Akris Jacket
"I liked her color progression in this episode, going from the dark gray to the bright blue and finally to this cream and tan patterned jacket," he states. "It was a sort of rebirth, and the wonderful assymetrical collar really framed her face."
Season 5, Episode 17: Lafayette 148 Jacket
"This look was all about keeping her simple and somber, but still stylish, as she has just experienced something so traumatic," says Lawson of the black and maroon woven jacket with black leather trim.
Season 5, Episode 17: Max Mara Coat
"This Max Mara gray cashmere winter coat has a beautiful dark brown mink collar," said Lawson. "I wanted Alicia to look like she was playing the part of the politician's wife in this piece. Plus, she really needed something warm as it was very cold outside that day!"
Season 5, Episode 17: Nina Ricci Suit
"Again, I wanted to keep her in somber colors and simple shapes, as not much time since Will's death has passed," Lawson said of the boucle wool suit with grosgrain trim. "She is still quite in mourning."
Season 5, Episode 17: Number35 Dress
"Since Alicia is sitting throughout these scenes, I wanted there to be some interest at the neck without being too eye-catching," states Lawson of the asymmetrical neckline frock. "I thought it was appropriate to have Alicia in a dress for Will's funeral. It seemed more wife-like and more intimate than a suit."
Season 5, Episode 15: Calvin Klein jacket
"This is such a beautiful white for her to start the episode," Lawson said of the topper, which had crisp architectural lines. "And she just looks so innocent."
Season 5, Episode 15: Elie Tahari coat
"I loved the way she looked in this overcoat with a shawl collar," he said. "We thought originally that the collar was too big, so we were going to cut it down, but decided to keep it big and oversize at the last minute."
Season 5, Episode 15: Alexander McQueen pantsuit
"This is one of my favorite suits she's ever worn on the show," said Lawson. "She doesn't wear ruffles, but when she put it on, it looked so carefree and had this beautiful feminine quality to it. It set everything apart for her. It draws so much attention to her face. It's gorgeous." He layered a black Theory tank underneath for extra coverage.
Season 5, Episode 15: Karolina Zmarlak Jacket and Skirt
This is a pivotal look, as it's the outfit she wears when she finds out about Will's death. He had it custom made by the New York designer specifically for this moment of the show. "Alicia was at a fundraiser being the politician's wife, so it was important that she look like she's in her armor," explained Lawson. "It read very buttoned-up and elegant. Then to contrast it with having her find out about Will's death, it showed that no matter how put together and armored you are, the bad stuff is still going to get through."
Season 5, Episode 14: Akris Jacket and Cartier Watch
"I love the brick red color of this jacket, and the brass hook and eye closures are a nice detail," said Lawson. "But my favorite thing about the jacket is the cuff. They are lined in black, so it's a nice complement when you roll your sleeves up."
Season 5, Episode 14: L.K. Bennett Jacket
Lawson calls this jacket "smart." "It punches with a little color, but it's not overwhelming. I am so glad I get her to try new things."
Season 5, Episode 14: Style Paris Suit
"When Julianna put this on, she said it made her feel strong and in control of the room, and I loved that," said Lawson. "That is very much about what I do and that is how I think clothes should make you feel."
Season 5, Episode 14: Max Mara Dress
"I used this dress for a flashback scene where I wanted her to be a little sexier for the office," said Lawson. "Because of how slim the arms are, it's really sexy in a sophisticated way. I wish I could have her wear this all the time in the future!"
Season 5, Episode 13: Burberry
"This suit jacket has black panels on the side," said Lawson. "I love how the black tank pulls out the color of the jacket. This is something that would work on anybody who has to go to court or a business meeting. It's so slimming, too!"
Season 5, Episode 13: Nina Ricci Jacket
Lawson loved how there was shine to this jacket. "This was like a novelty fabric with pink and cream wool going through it," he said. "There was also a bow at the neck, which was unexpected for her—it's almost too ladylike."
Season 5, Episode 13: Akris Jacket
"The collar is fleece but it looks like real fur," explained Lawson. "It looks so chic. What a jacket to make an impression!"
Season 5, Episode 13: Style Paris Suit, George Simonton Coat and Furla bag
This wool cashmere jacket with fabric-covered buttons and a pencil skirt was custom made for the character. "It's a little Dior New Look," said Lawson. "I love how it's a feminine take on a masculine fabric." To finish the look, he added a coat "that followed the line of the neck beautifully," he said. "It speaks volumes, and you know she's luxurious!"
Season 5, Episode 10: Basler Jacket and Armani Skirt
"We continued her color story in the gray world with this abstract stripe jacket," explained Lawson. "It was a really pretty jacket and hugged her body well."
Season 5, Episode 10: Michael Kors Jacket
"This stand-up exaggerated collar was definitely a departure from her usual silhouette," said Lawson. "You still got a sense of her body but this shape made her seem really strong."
Season 5, Episode 10: Alexander McQueen Pantsuit and Armani Blouse
"She wore this to her holiday party, which fit because I wanted her to represent her law firm and wear a holiday-ish color," explained Lawson. "I thought it was risky to do a pantsuit, but I went with it because it was so unexpected. I'm glad we did—Julianna thought it was perfect, chic and elegant."
SEASON 5, EPISODE 9: ESCADA JACKET, ETRO BLOUSE, AND GUCCI TROUSERS
"This was the opening look, and it worked perfectly," said costume designer Dan Lawson. "The Etro blouse underneath had gold and silver beading. It could have been worn by itself, but putting it with the blazer gave her a wonderful layer of sparkle around her neck."
SEASON 5, EPISODE 9: GUCCI BLAZER AND ESCADA SKIRT
"I loved how this double-breasted jacket was a feminized version of a man's double breasted suit," explained Lawson. "And the color was great!"
SEASON 5, EPISODE 9: ESCADA BLAZER AND ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SKIRT
"Black and white is so trendy right now, so I love to drop in those on-trend moments when I can to keep it current," Lawson said of this Escada blazer, which featured a gold zipper in the front.
Season 5, Episode 8: Rena Lange Jacket, Brooks Brothers Necklace and Gucci Trousers
"I was really drawn to the dimensional pattern of this jacket," said Lawson. "I thought it flattered so well, especially with less pattern on the top to draw attention to her face. It worked so well on television!" As for the heavy chain, it's not something Alicia is used to. "I thought it looked nice," Lawson said. "I wanted gold jewelry to stand out, rather than silver to echo the grays of the jacket."
Season 5, Episode 8: L'Agence Suit with Alexander McQueen Pencil Skirt
"This was so clean and sleek," Lawson said. "I loved the gold zipper. That kind of zipper acts as jewelry. You really don't need anything else."
Season 5, Episode 7: Escada Jacket
"I was so excited to find this piece," costume designer Daniel Lawson said of this Escada blue jacket that featured a white layer under the lapel. "I paired it with a silk Rivamonti cowl neck blouse that had tiny beads along the edge. Every once in a while, it caught the light. It was beautiful."
Season 5, Episode 7: No. 35 Suit
"This navy blue suede jacket had leather panels and it made her look slim and sleek," explained Lawson. His tip for buying a suede skirt: Get a size down. "Suede stretches after the first wearing because of your body heat."
Season 5, Episode 7: Ferragamo Pantsuit and Vince Blouse
"Julianna Margulies said that this was one of her favorite looks ever," Lawson admitted. "She loved how the flannel pants were cropped so you could see some of the foot. And I loved the gold zippers accentuating the flannel jacket. It was really clever. It made it so strong yet feminine."
Season 5, Episode 6: Armani Suit
"This was the first time we see everyone in her home working, and I wanted her to look like she was part of the chaos," costume designer Daniel Lawson explained of why he chose this suit, which featured a double breasted jacket that turned into a single breasted look.
Season 5, Episode 6: L.K. Bennett Suit
"I thought the black edging up the front and around the neck centered us on her and around the face," Lawson said of this black and white tweed jacket and pencil skirt combination by L.K. Bennett. "It looked sharp and it really gave focus and definition for her."
Season 5, Episode 6: Moschino Jacket
Do you recognize this blast from the past? It's a Moschino jacket Alicia Florrick wore last season. "This red suit made her seem like she could take control of anything and was very organized," he said of this look. Lawson paired the jacket with a pair of Gucci pants.
Season 5, Episode 6: Tom Ford Suit
"I loved the strong shoulders on this jacket and skirt," explained Lawson. "And I really loved the color. It was like a brown olive, almost like dried grass. It was neutral without being completely neutral."
Season 5, Episode 5: Number 35 Suit
"We altered the suit quite a bit to fit the curves of her body and I love the black elbow patches that made it different," Lawson says of why he chose this. But more importantly, it spoke to her changing storyline: "I wanted it to go with the white gray because she thought she was under the radar, but then she got caught. It was an unassuming outfit to tell her story and her surprise at being found out."
Season 5, Episode 4: Akris Jacket
There was black leather on the cuffs, the breast pocket and under the collar of this Akris jacket. "I thought it was really clever," Lawson said of the detail. "Above the breast pocket, it looked like a stylized pocket square." Lawson paired the jacket with a pair of black wool Gucci pants.
Season 5, Episode 4: Armani
"I'm going neutral with her all season, and I found this lavender color to be a color without being a color," says Lawson. "It was still a neutral."
Season 5, Episode 4: Escada Suit
The metallic sheen on this navy suit, created with a mix of black and metallic silver thread, made this loo pop on camera. "I love the metallic sheet because it's still a neutral and it gives it a little life," tells Lawson. "I think in real life, women appreciate that kind of pop in their office looks."
Season 5, Episode 4: Armani
Both the black wool suit and the sleeveless gray blouse are by Armani. "The blouse looked like it had an ascot to it, which really drew attention to her face," Lawson says of why he picked the pieces. "It's like she's an English barrister!"