Why Proenza Schouler Won't Be Showing at NYFW Anymore
After New York fixtures Tommy Hilfiger and Rebecca Minkoff announced that they would be showing in Los Angeles in February, after cult-favorite accessories and soon-to-be ready-to-wear brand Mansur Gavriel opted out of a traditional NYFW presentation altogether (and instead offer an immersive Candy Shop experience), after more brands decided to adopt a see-now-buy-now model (Banana Republic and H&M are the latest), and after Calvin Klein sent out an official release broadcasting co-ed runways, arrives another jolt to the traditional calendar: starting with the spring/summer 2018 collection, Proenza Schouler is planning to consolidate its main runway and pre-collections into one, which will be shown bi-annually in Paris in July and January (the first collection in July will coincide with Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week).
It's a commerce-driven decision—one that was derived after seeing how large a percentage of sales came from the pre-collections (another indicator that consumers don't know, or don't care about the differences between fall, spring, and pre lines). In adjusting this calendar, the main ready-to-wear collection will once again be the focus, "thus giving them a longer life at retail," according to the release.
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Another reason? The 2018 launch of the brand's first-ever fragrance, a collaboration done with L'Oreal Luxe. "A more pronounced international presence is a key initiative. This move to Paris will aid in achieving the company’s short and long-term goals, and enable the organization to function in a way that is more aligned with the demands of the industry today," reads the release.
But don't worry. We'll still get our Proenza fix in February—the fall/winter 2017 show is still scheduled take place on the 13th.