Noam Galai/WireImage, Imaxtree (2)
New York Fashion Week is in full swing, and as we spot the wardrobe pieces we can't wait to break out come fall, we're also taking note of all the daring and demure runway beauty looks. There was a definite blue streak running at Creatures of the Wind and Herve Leger -- Bumble and Bumble editorial hairstylist Laurent Philippon drew upon designer Lubov Azria's high-tech inspiration and added bold azure highlights to the models' ponytails at Herve Leger, while James Boehmer, lead makeup artist at Creatures of the Wind, let the oversized braid take the focus with a subtle swipe of turquoise liner. Carmen Marc Valvo's girls, on the other hand, took an edgier approach with their eye makeup, and we loved how the double-winged liner made a major impact with minimal effort. Daring enough to take these runway looks into the real world? We spoke to the makeup artists and hairstylists backstage before viewing the shows, so we could get pro tips on how to recreate the looks, and find out how they got inspired. Get all the details on our favorite runway hair and makeup looks by clicking through our gallery now!
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Creatures of the Wind
Models at Creatures of the Wind wore a minimalist makeup look-save for a bold swipe of aquamarine liner-which allowed the avant-garde updo to be the focal point. "We were going for a cool, braided 'hat' hairstyle," says lead hairstylist Odile Gilbert, who used Kerastase products to create the look. She began by forming a deep side part to the right, and after applying the Mousse Bouffante ($36; kerastase-usa.com) all over, she blow-dried each model's hair and added extra movement with the Touche Perfection and Powder Bluff products ($35 and $36; kerastase-usa.com). Gilbert then started twisting the massive braid, starting at the side part and swooping down the side of the face. "Continue braiding with the rest of the length so the braid sits at the back of the head, and lightly rough up the front and top wiht your fingers for a slightly electric, undone look," adds Gilbert.
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Herve Leger
Graphic touches like an exaggerated cat-eye and a sleek blue-striped pony at Herve Leger mirrored the label's intricate prints and 3D bandage dresses. "The collection is very futuristic and technological; I wanted the makeup look to reflect that," says lead makeup artist Val Garland, who used Temptu products. "I wanted the girls to feel fresh, forward, and out of this world-somewhat of a digital game."
Carmen Marc Valvo
"Carmen was inspired by Istanbul and the whole idea of a strong woman, so I couldn't do hair that was flat, romantic, and pretty," says lead hairstylist Ted Gibson. "Immediately I thought about ponytails, but had to do something fun and strong with it. We got leather pieces to wrap around the ponytail and did a tiered look." To accentuate the double-winged liner, Gibson also added fake bangs in the front. "The fringe really brings emphasis to the face and makes the look tougher," he adds.
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Suno
Makeup artists at Suno paired each model's clean skin against a sheer wash of pink shadow, which was offset by the "hippie chic blowout" created by Kerastase's Odile Gilbert. She began by blow-drying hair completely straight with a paddle brush, then ran a strip of gold makeup along the center part. A metallic-tipped French mani finished the look.
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Tadashi Shoji
"It's about mystery, romance, and decadence," says lead makeup artist Lisa Houghton of Shoji's runway look. "It's reminiscent of an enchanting Moorish night." Houghton blended a mix of yet-to-be-released gold hues by MAC onto the lids, then used the Hearts Aflame lipstick (available fall 2014) to create a stained effect. "Press onto the lip with your fingertip, then blot with a tissue layer by layer," she advises. "The edges of the lip were faded to a whisper for a medieval, painterly appearance." An undone, braided updo by Redken's Rodney Cutler gave the look an effortless vibe.
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Helmut Lang
We were always convinced that those stretchy, claw headbands from the '90s were a hair faux pas-until we saw Helmut Lang's F/W 14 show, that is! "I wanted to create a look that was technical, and almost geological in feel to complement the textures and patterns of the collection," says Wella lead hairstylist Eugene Souleiman. "The use of a spring comb to pull the hair off the face added a graphic edge."
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Emerson
We knew we weren't the only ones getting style inspiration from the latest season of American Horror Story! Inspired by the bewitching looks worked onscreen by Marie Laveau and company, designer Jackie Fraser-Swan incorporated slashes, cutouts, and negative space on inky fabrics into her range. Hair and makeup also followed suit, with a purple-tinted braid and smudgy, almost sinister, cat-eye.
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Cushnie et Ochs
Moroccanoil's artistic director Antonio Corral Calero gave each of the Cushnie et Ochs girls a super-shiny blowout with a deep side part, which was complemented by precise winged liner and iridescent, oil slick-esque nails. "The MAC Feline Eye Kohl and Fluidline in Blacktrack ($16 each; maccosmetics.com) were drawn through the lash line to extend and define the eye with a pitch black feline shape," says lead makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury.
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Christian Siriano
If anyone knows how to create a fierce look, it's Christian Siriano! The rolled, oversized updos were teamed with graphic liner and bold brows for an uncomplicated statement.
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Altuzarra
Two different-and bold-makeup looks were showcased on the Altuzarra runway. While one group of models sported day-glo green shadow, the rest worked a gold and pink layered look. "The looks were inspired straight from the collection," says MAC lead makeup artist Tom Pecheux, who drew upon the fantastical cashmere, glitter, and pink elements from the range in particular.
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Kate Spade
Chief creative officer Deborah Lloyd and brand stylist Brad Goreski based the collection on their travels to Tokyo and Shanghai, exploring the juxtaposition of each location's modern elements alongside the old world cultures and traditions. While the makeup, by MAC's executive director of makeup artistry Lyne Desnoyers, took the modern approach with careful highlighting and a fresh finish, Garnier hairstylist Tommy Buckett went more traditional with a sleek, high ponytail. "It's really exaggerated with a slight samurai feel," he says.
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BCBG Max Azria
"We did a 'nouvelle vague take on the modern New York girl-François Hardy meets Patti Smith," Bumble and Bumble editorial stylist Laurent says of the low-key hair. "Windswept hair with slightly volatile texture was pulled across the forehead with a deep side part, then tucked just behind the ear and underneath in back." The look was offset by neat, groomed brows, and a wash of cranberry shadow, blended into the crease.
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Veronica Beard
Perhaps on the heels of a recent viewing of American Hustle, models at Veronica Beard wore a '70s glam look with buoyant side-parted waves, shimmery shadow, and a statement lip. "The collection is inspired by the free-spirit of a young girl living in glam-rock harmony between Beverly Hills and Hollywood," says Bobbi Brown, who created the makeup for Beard's show. "Her beauty looks complement her California style-effortless, but striking."
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Peter Som
Lead makeup artist Tom Pecheux went for a smoky eye/cat liner hybrid at the Peter Som show, where the effect was complemented by a slight flush and matte nude lip. "It's a '60s and '70s inspiration," he says. "An English girl with a modern South of France twist."
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Alexander Wang
Alexander Wang took minimalist makeup to another level at his F/W 14 show when models took the runway in clean skin and muted-out brows. The helmet-esque hair by Redken's Guido Palau added an avant-garde finish that was very in line with the designer's vision. "The inspiration actually came from a drawing Alexander shared with me when he was designing this collection," he says. "I wanted the hair look drawn on the models like in the illustration, so I used very straight lines to create the illusion that it was stuck on-I didn't want it to be too normal."
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Ruffian
Forget effortless glamour-Ruffian's girls brought on the real deal with a super-shiny red lip, grey smoky eye, and prominent contouring.
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Rebecca Minkoff
Is it just us, or does Rebecca Minkoff's runway look have a slight '90s grunge feeling to it? TRESemme hairstylist Jeanie Syfu gave each girl a low ponytail, allowing loose tendrils to fall out and frame the face. The style was complemented by a deep wine lip. "Oxblood is the new power pout," says lead makeup artist Sarah Lucero, who used Stila's Stay All Day Liquid Lipstick in Amore ($22; http://www.stilacosmetics.com/product/stay+all+day+liquid+lipstick.do). "It plays beautifully with the strength of fall's masculine silhouettes and moody color palettes."
