Exclusive! Go Behind-The-Scenes at Kate Spade's Hair and Makeup Test for Fashion Week
When it comes to fun ensembles, bold prints, and even bolder beauty choices, Kate Spade New York's Fashion Week presentation sets the bar high every season. InStyle.com took an exclusive trip to the label's studio just two days before the Fall/Winter 2014 show for a behind-the-scenes look at the hair and makeup test, and to find out all about the creative process behind the whimsical getups. Kate Spade Chief Creative Officer Deborah Lloyd drew inspiration from her travels to create a range of high-impact pieces that seamlessly walk the line between traditional and modern. "When I traveled to Tokyo and Shanghai, I loved how these super-modern cities existed alongside the amazing culture, tradition, and heritage these places had," Lloyd tells InStyle.com exclusively. "I spent a lot of my time hanging out the back of our car photographing in Tokyo, because I just loved what happened with the lights and bright colors. When I was in Shanghai, I loved being in the traditional hotel, but looking out the window and seeing a super-modern city." The avant-garde street style in both locations one modern element in particular that resonated with brand stylist Brad Goreski. "We were in Harajuku, which is where the best of the best street style is. Even as a stylist, it's hard for me to imagine all the creativity and conception that goes into these looks -- and on top of that, the dedication!" he tells us. "The clothes fit beautifully, and they played with shapes, colors, layering, and textures. The way the pieces went together was very unique and inspirational."
Of course, the dual nature of the collection was also mirrored in the hair and makeup; Garnier's Tommy Buckett put a classic spin on the ponytail by incorporating an old world vibe. "It's really exaggerated with a slight samurai feel as the inspiration this year came from the modern and traditional aspects of Tokyo, among other destinations," he says. "Looking at the inspiration gets you going as an artist, and allows you to see where the designers want to take it." Alternately, Lyne Desnoyers, MAC's Executive Director of Makeup, took the current route by pairing bold neutrals with glowing skin and subtle highlighting. "We want to create a look that is versatile and very chic, but something that wouldn't be in your face," she tells us. "There's a beautiful story going into this collection, and I think it should be reflected in the makeup with luminous skin, and delicately-lined eyes." Click through our gallery to take an exclusive look at how Kate Spade's fall 2014 look came together, straight from each of the hair, makeup, and nail pros!
The Makeup Spread
Drawing inspiration from equal parts modern and contemporary references, Lyne Desnoyers, MAC's Executive Director of Makeup Artistry, played with subtle highlights and sheer pops of color. "It's really the type of makeup most women are looking for-something that takes you to any type of occasion or function, while still remaining elegant with as few steps as possible," she says. "You don't need to do a lot of things, you just need to do smart things, like picking clever points of the face to highlight."
Setting the Foundation
A glowing complexion is key in creating the Kate Spade New York look for Fall 2014. "We used a very luminous primer, the MAC Prep + Prime Natural Radiance in Pink ($40; maccosmetics.com), then highlighted using the MAC Cream Color base in Pearl ($20; maccosmetics.com)," says Desnoyers. "I've also used the Pigment in White ($21; maccosmetics.com) a very finely-milled shimmer powder to highlight the inner corners of the eyes. As for the lip color, what I'm trying to do is a statement with a bold nude-the same effect you' get from a bright, bold color."
The Power Pout
Desnoyers had MAC's full spectrum of lipsticks handy, but ultimately opted to use the Nude Lip Mix in conjunction with the lipsticks in Half N Half, and Myself ($15, and $16 each; maccosmetics.com). "They create almost a glazed effect on the lips, so it's extremely feminine without being in your face," she says. "The most beautiful nude is one that mimics your lip color. Look at the darkest part of your lip, then match that color with a sheer lipstick or gloss."
After sculpting the model's brows with MAC's eye shadow in Brun ($15; maccosmetics.com), Desnoyers added a coat of clear gel to keep her arches in place. "To get the look exactly right, being light-handed, grooming the brows, and paying attention to detail, are key things you need to remember," she says.
Tricks of the Trade
Lead hairstylist Tommy Buckett chose to team the fresh-faced makeup look with a high, sleek ponytail, using a trio of Garnier products to form the style. "We're using the Marvelous Oils to prep, flat-iron, and finish the hair, the Flat Iron Spray as a protectant, and a bit of the Disorder Spray ($6 each; drugstore.com)," he says. "It's a brand-new hairspray with a little bit of wax in it, and even though the bottle says it's for guys, it's amazing on women, too-it gets those baby hairs and creates a pulled, seamless effect."
Prepping the Look
"The hardest part is getting the ponytail really high and smooth," says Buckett. After applying a cocktail of Garnier's Marvelous Oil and the Flat Iron Spray, he blow-dried the model's hair completely smooth to set a solid foundation for the style. "Make sure you blow out everything going upwards, then flat iron all the way through," he adds.
Sky's the Limit!
Once the look is anchored, a few quick passes with a flat iron locked in the bone-straight texture. "A great way to get a really tight ponytail is to look up toward the ceiling as you're putting it in," Buckett says. "That way, it stays tight in the back and you won't get that loose, baggy feeling around the nape of your neck."
Buckett spritzes on a veil of hairspray to finish the high-fashion ponytail, which he tied off with a strip of black tape as a graphic twist. "It's really exaggerated with a slight samurai feel as the inspiration this year came from the modern and traditional aspects of Tokyo, among other destinations," he says. "It's also kind of fun that this year is the Year of the Horse, and we're doing a super-long ponytail." Now that's one way to give the lunar new year a stylish nod!
Celebrity manicurist Deborah Lippmann decked out each of the Kate Spade models with intricate nail art during previous seasons, but this year, she decided to take things in a more sophisticated direction with a shiny nude nail. "We were originally going to do strong color blocking, and we tried nude color blocking, but we ultimately decided on a super-shiny sheer beige," says Lippmann, who used her own lacquer in Naked ($18; deborahlippmann.com) to create the look. "I think this makes a statement, and maybe it's a good statement to make, because maybe we've done enough nail art."
A Glowing Finish
The final result was ethereal and radiant, proving that minimalist makeup doesn't always have to fall flat. "I think with the hair and the makeup, it's bringing a fresh perspective to who the Kate Spade girl is," says Goreski. "Everything for this season is about modernity and something new, while still keeping in tune with the Kate Spade girl people know and love so well." We love it!