The Best Beauty Looks From Fall 2015 Fashion Week
Paging Daisy Buchananan: Your flapper-era look just got a 2015 update! "This look was all about a cool, modern take on Old Hollywood glam," says lead makeup artist Gucci Westman, who lined each model's pout with Revlon's Raisin lip liner ($9; ulta.com), then layered the Black Cherry lipstick ($3; ulta.com) on top. Just before walking the runway, a small amount of the Snow Pink lip gloss ($9; ulta.com) was applied to the lids, adding extra dimension to the metallic eye. The hair, by Antonio Corral Calero for Moroccanoil, was styled into a faux bob, complete with a retro finger wave.
Alice + Olivia
What do you get when you cross a '70s rocker chic with a flamenco dancer? Alice + Olivia's gorgeous models, of course, who all wore a saturated wine lip and sleek updo adorned with flowers. "I created a sleek rope braid and fastened it into a chignon for a strong, immaculate silhouette from all sides," says lead hairstylist Rodney Cutler for Redken. "The ruby red flowers and luscious lips complemented the ornateness of the clothes, and delve deep er in to the extreme detail from the collection."
As a complement to the Spanish vibe of Badgley Mischka's collection, makeup artist Tom Pecheux created a powerful winged-out effect with a touch of edge using MAC's Fluidline in Blacktrack ($16; maccosmetics.com). "You know what I love about Spain? It's a very macho country, but the women are so powerful. They run everything, and the men are on their knees!" he tells us. "That's what I wanted to show---the power and rebellious feeling the women have." The eye was topped off with a swipe of ink blue shadow, and paired with a pale lip, and crystal-covered manicure by Deborah Lippmann. Armed with the Moroccanoil Luminous Hairspray ($23; moroccanoil.com) and the brand's yet-to-be-released dry shampoos, lead hairstylist Peter Gray teased hair to a higher altitude to form a Brigitte Bardot-esque updo, and stuck two real roses hand-dipped in gold paint in the back of the head.
At Jeremy Scott, the day-glo eye makeup was paired with a remixed French mani, and bobbed wigs streaked with paint. "The look is reminiscent of Beatrice Dalle in the film Betty Blue when she goes berserk and cuts off her hair, it shouldn't be perfect," says lead hairstylist Euegene Souliman for Wella Professionals. "I worked with Jeremy to select the shades, and the intention was to create color that clashes with the fabrics."
Rihanna would be proud---Rodarte's girls were all shining bright like diamonds with two strips of iridescent crystals lining their lower lashes.
As a nod to the bold red Doc Martens she wore back in the late '80s and early '90s, lead makeup artist Francelle Daly for NARS gave each model a vivid crimson pout, while Paul Hanlon created a roughed-up, tousled effect for the hair. "We went for a grunge look and drew inspiration from an English girl from the early '90s," he says. "To give hair that texture, we're basically putting back the flaws you would typically take out."
An ombre silver eye and center-parted blowout complemented the '70s vibe of Pamella Roland's gorgeous lineup.
Talk about a blue streak! The brown smoky eye at Karen Walker made a major statement with a jolt of cobalt, and was appropriately paired with a shiny sapphire mani.
To create a rebellious school girl vibe, lead makeup artist Grace Lee applied several coats of mascara to pump up the volume in the lashes, and finished with a sweep of Maybelline's Color Sensational Bloom in Wild Orchid ($8; drugstore.com).
"A modern blend of '70s African style and futuristic elements set the tone for the Tracy Reese collection this season," says lead hairstylist Bok Lee for SheaMoisture, who created the graphic updos. "The vision was to always keep the woman looking strong."
True to the designer's bohemian aesthetic, the hair at Anna Sui was all about free-flowing "I woke up like this" waves, while the eyes were covered in gold shadow and topped off with double-winged liner.
The brick red lip and taupe shadow, blended all the way to the browbone, got a touch of elegance with a rolled updo.
The cat-eye was given an extra-graphic twist at Suno, where makeup artist Alice Lane swapped the traditional pointed edges for a rectangular-shaped wing. Lead hairstylist Odile Gilbert paired the effect with an equally-strong updo. She gave strands a glass-like finish by applying a veil of Kenra Platinum Hot Spray ($20; ulta.com), then flat-ironed hair in sections to lock in a bone-straight texture. She combed hair into a slicked-back shape with a dollop of the Kenra Volume Mousse ($16; ulta.com), and gathered the length into a low ponytail that sat at the nape of the neck. To finish, Gilbert flipped the layers upward and clipped them into place with a patterned barette.
"The focus is on the metallic liner, which we placed above either a black or brown eyeliner," says lead makeup artist Kabuki for MAC. "We're doing a different color for each girl. It's not a uniform look, and we're basically just using our brains to determine what will flatter the eye shape and skin tone for the model." Hairstylist Odile Gilbert kept the glamorous feeling going into the hair with soft, retro-inspired waves. To impart the texture, she prepped models' strands with a layer of Moroccanoil Heat Styling Protection ($28; moroccanoil.com) before winding each section around a large-barrel curling iron.
Who knew glitter-covered lashes could be so chic? Makeup artist Diane Kendal mirrored the effect of water droplets by adding a mixture of Duo lash adhesive to the tips, then sprinkled silver glitter over the top before applying the strips to models' eyes. Lids were coated in MAC's Lipglass in clear ($18; maccosmetics.com), and as a finishing touch, she added a bold red pout using a matte liquid lipstick. Lead hairstylist Orlando Pita tied hair into a low, shiny ponytail, which was wrapped at the base in a metallic cord.
Paired against clean skin and a glossy lip, the gilded glitter lining the upper lashes served as the focal point. To create the look, lead makeup artist Pep Gay for MAC swept on Duo Lash Adhesive in the shape of a liquid liner wing, then dabbed MAC Pro Gold Glitter ($25; maccosmetics.com) on top. Strands were blown out sleek, with volume and loose curls through the mid-lengths and ends. "This collection is all about airy, easy elegance with a fresh take on an old Hollywood style," says lead hairstylist Rodney Cutler for Redken. "The hair looks luxe with voluminous curls, but young and sleek in the front with the severe part and silky texture."
Cushnie et Ochs
Judy Jetson would be proud---models gave the term "starry-eyed" a literal meaning with their space travel-inspired smoky eye, complete with a double wing and deep green accents. Lead makeup artist Yadim created the dramatic shape with Maybelline's Master Kajal Eyeliner in Onyx Rush ($8; ulta.com), set it with a black shadow, then followed with the Eye Studio Color Molten duo in Teal Twist ($8; ulta.com) to give the look extra dimension.
Slicked-down fringe complemented the berry lip and brushed-up brows at Donna Karan.
To mirror Rebecca Minkoff's '70s-inspired collection, the hair and makeup teams used Patti Smith as their muse. "All the girls have a piecey bang, and the makeup is very night-after," says lead hairstylist Orlando Pita, who misted the Tresemme Perfectly Undone Sea Salt Spray ($7; target.com) on damp hair, and rough dried to impart a lived-in texture. Makeup artist Sarah Lucero used her arsenal of Stila Smudgepots ($20; sephora.com) and mascara to give each model a "wide-eyed wanderlust look," and kept the skin matte. "There's a lot of inspiration from late '70s music, so we're almost messing up the liner on the bottom," she tells us. "It's worn-in, almost slept-in, with a very bohemian feel that's more rocker than hippie."
Lead hairstylist James Pecis paid homage to Catherine Denvenue by giving each model a bouncy blowout, which was topped off with a thick headband. He applied a layer of Phytovolume Actif Volumizing Spray ($29; beauty.com) from root to tip before drying with a round brush, then worked in the Intense Volume Mousse ($24; beauty.com). With a large-barrel curling iron, Pecis worked section by section, and pinned each ringlet in place to set. Once the curls cooled, he unclipped each area and smoothed over with another layer of the Intense Volume Mousse. For the makeup, Romy Soleimani went for all-over dewy effect with pops of color on the lips and cheeks, thanks to a few well-placed dabs of Kevyn Aucoin's Creamy Glow Duo in Pravella/Janelle ($28; beauty.com). Eyes were topped off with the Loose Shimmer Shadow in Citrine ($29; beauty.com) and a swipe of Vaseline to impart a glossy sheen.
As a testament to the many changing looks of Kate Moss, who lead makeup artist Val Garland used as her muse, models at Lhuillier's show all wore a dramatic smoky eye, but varied between nude and red lip colors. Hair also alternated between down styles, half-updos, and ponytails, but all held a bone-straight texture.
Carmen Marc Valvo
Carmen Marc Valvo's girls remixed the faux lash treatment with a set drawn on with eyeliner, with a matte lip and sculpted brow to balance the unexpected effect. Lead hairstylist Ted Gibson also gave the topsy-tail a chic upgrade by pairing the flipped ponytail with volume at the crown, and second-day texture.
Miller's girls walked the runway in shiny, side-parted ponytails and a sexy Earth-toned smoky eye.
Lead hairstylist Guido Palau gave off serious Marilyn Manson vibes with the tousled, wet-look hairstyle, which he created by applying a generous amount of Redken's Diamond Oil ($40; ulta.com) all over. "This season, it’s meant to feel very heavy, rock-and-roll and sort of dark," he says. Palau then coated strands in a cocktail of the Forceful 23 ($18; ulta.com) and Diamond Oil High Shine Airy Mist ($22; ulta.com) to impart a stringy appearance, while Diane Kendal went to work with the NARS Eye Paint in Transvaal ($25; narscosmetics.com) to give the eyes a smudgy, slept-in effect.
"The Altuzarragirl is supposed to be fresh and natural, but I wanted to give the makeup a comfortable, lived-in feeling, like she's been wearing it," says lead makeup artist Tom Pecheux, who blended a grey cream from MAC's pro line on the inner half of the lid, then followed with a brown cream on the outer portion of the eye. In the center, he dabbed on a purple-tinted gloss to blend the two hues. "It brings humidity to the look, and creates a connection between the grey and brown. Little by little, the gloss will move." With an ample amount of Moroccanoil Hydrating Styling Cream ($34; moroccanoil.com) and a few spritzes of hairspray, Odile Gilbert gave the flat chignons a wet effect, but kept a small amount of volume on the top. "We apply the cream to wet hair, work it in with our fingers, and rough-dry it," she says. "Then, we wrap the hair and keep it at the nape of the neck. You twist the bun, then open it a little to make it flat. It's very organic."
Diane Von Furstenberg
Keeping in line with the '40s theme of the collection, lead makeup artist Pat McGrath used her arsenal of Max Factor products to give each girl a sexy, smoldering eye. "It's modern and glamorous, yet seductive," she says.
Starting with the designer's inspiration of the flora and fauna in the Congo jungle, MAC lead makeup artist complemented the bold prints in the collection by creating a sunset effect on the eye, blending the deep purple into the vivid yellow at the inner corners. The contrast between the sleek, blown-out layers and retro finger waves gave the hair a variety in texture.
If Princess Leia were to hit up Fashion Week, chances are, she'd be working this look. Lead makeup artist Lottie for Maybelline looked to the trends of the late '70s to mirror Hoffman's Star Wars-inspired aesthetic for a dramatic gold eye. The effect was paired with a mega-braid, created by Thomas Osborn, who prepped hair with a cocktail of TIGI Session Series Salt Spray (catwalkbytigi.com for locations).
Makeup artists extended the cat-eye into a rounded, upward flick to complement the smooth, center-parted hair.