Graphic eyes are taking over the world. And by the world we mean Instagram, of course. In our latest Facebook Live, makeup artist Katie Jan Hughes shows us exactly how to master the oh-so popular beauty trend IRL.
Turns out, there are two ways to go about this.
The Soft Graphic Eye
Need something a little more appropriate for your 9-5, or at least for that early morning Literature class? The soft graphic eye with a cut crease is for you.
While you may recognize the cut crease as something that's a little bolder (and all over your photo feed), Katie tells us that it's actually a technique that's been around forever and a day. The look she created for us here utilizes a softer cut crease, and it's downright gorgeous.
RELATED: A Few Pro Tips to Keep Your Makeup from Creasing
One of the biggest lessons we learned from our time with Katie was her crease-finding strategy. Seriously, it's pure genius. Katie recommends looking straight into the mirror as if you're talking to a friend. You'll see in the video we couldn't help but giggle about it. This way, you will be able to pinpoint exactly where your crease is naturally.
She also give us some major game-changing tips when it comes to applying the shadows. We’ve all had those mishaps where half of the product starts crumbling down the cheek. Her tip for avoiding the extra clean-up is to use short and small strokes and to gradually layer on the product. This will keep the shadow under control.
RELATED: What a Beauty Editor Keeps in Her Beauty Bag
Want to amp it up? Go for the floating eyeliner, a look Roxanne models in the video above. Katie taught us that the floating eyeliner is really just a modern way of doing a more vintage look.
Watch the full video for the complete step-by-step, product-by-product tutorial and even more expert tips.
[BLANK_AUDIO] Hi Facebook. I am Roxana Damiat and I am the Beauty Editor of Mimi. And we are here today to talk about the defined graphic eye. We are here with- Abby Tramerhouse. I'm the Editor of Mimi. And Katie Jane Hughes. Hi. Make up artist extraordinaire we love Katie here at Mimi. I love you. So first thing's first let's get right into it what is the difference between floating liner and a cut crease. So floating liner is what you've got on, aka banana line, floating liner, I did this look [UNKNOWN] about two season back at New York fashion week. And it was really really cool, it looked really effortless with all the clothes and it was just really cool. It's a very modern way of just doing a vintage look. And I like to say it's modern on you specifically because we've not done a heavy eyelash and we've kept everything pretty light. Which is really important to keeping this look fresh and modern. And then a cut crease is something that I feel has risen to fame. I mean it's a very old makeup technique, it's been around for many many years, but a cut crease is definitely something that's become way more famous from Instagram- Yeah. I mean I see it every single day when I'm scrolling through my feed. 100%. And it's like You could Google cut crease on YouTube. Or you could search cut crease on YouTube and you would literally find a million and one videos. So I wanna help break it down today and make it really easy for you to do at home in a very fresh approach because there's a lot that's on the Internet that isn't as fresh. And I think it's a really cool look that can be worn in a very fresh, light, modern way. So a cut crease and [UNKNOWN] eyeliner both A part of the graphic eye umbrella. Definitely. Okay. 100%. And it's really easy to do. You just gotta know how to do it for different eye shades. Great, that's what we're gonna talk about. It's kind of like my eyeliner then Katie's eyeliner blended. Yeah. It's like together had a little eyeliner baby. My God. It's so cute. A little eyeliner baby. So we should get started. Alright so the first thing you're going to want to do is prep the eyelid with a cream eyeshadow. I'm going to use a shade called painterly from Mac. That's pretty. Which is a really really famous shade for this. So, or what colors are we doing for me? Cuz this is day time in soft, right. It's day time in soft, so I'm gonna stick to warmer browns. I might add a little bit of black but this is the thing about makeup and my approach to makeup. Unless I've been given a brief from a designer or a celeb or something, I like to kinda just Go with the flow. Chin down just a little bit. So before you're gonna start, you're gonna make sure that any concealer is blended out well. I don't like to powder the lids before I do this because once you've powdered an area, you'll find it hard to place things down and then move it. It's almost good just to have a neutral demi-matte kinda surface. If things are too matte, it's hard for creams to stick to it. Does that make sense? Yeah. So this is the paint pot from mack. I'm just going to pop this all over the lid. And what kind of brush are you using? This is a flat brush that's like a synthetic. I think it's a natural fiber but because it's a flat sytheticy kind of vibe it will allow the product just to lay on the skin. And But you can't buff with this brush, this is just literally a placing down type of brush. It seems like you're doing like short small strokes, is that right? It is right. My god, I love it. So basically, the reason why I do this is because, well, this is what I said a minute ago about different eyelids needing to be worked in different ways. If I was to go like this I will actually pull the skin and you'll get little bends in the skin and then you might actually get creases in the lining. So, it's just kind of like saving yourself steps of cleaning up by doing it this way so you almost just like, so as to save it just apply a little bit and just keep adding then To throw on a lot and struggle to blend it. Yeah, definitely I think that tip with all product. Roxanne I feel like you say that all the time, that you are safer to build up then just going overboard with anything; eye liner, mascara, lipstick. Right, however I did just blend a little bit because its always important to blend as soon as you put on and you should always blend Immediately after putting it on because this will set after 30 to 60 seconds and you won't be able to do it. So, but I'm only blending the top part cuz if you blend everywhere, you can also move a lot of the product off. Depending on the skin, [UNKNOWN]. So blend in the area where her natural crease Just blend where the makeup stops, like blend where it stops so you get a fade. The thing about this, what we are going to do right now, it's half gradient half not, because it's gonna have a defined line in one part. But then in another part it's gonna have a nice gradient. So it's always important, if you are gonna do a gradient situation, blend, after each kinda step. So we're still on step one Still on step one okay. but basically rule of thumb with any makeup pretty much ever is you can never blend too much I think is the big takeaway. Totally totally although over blending with brushes aren't soft will create not nice texture it will create like Scratchiness, if that makes sense. It's like soft brushes are very, very, very important. So, step two, I'm going to take a neutral eye shadow, so I'm going to start building the depth and the kind of, the shape now, with a little brush like this. This is a little small definer brush. This is like a forever 208 straight. And what exactly like neutral, because that's pretty broad? Well you've got blue eyes. Okay yes. Kinda grey blue. So I love to wear warm browns because they actually make blue eyes appear more green and make the color more vivid. So I'm using this palette from Becca which is one of my favorites. Its most blendable formula, it has like Green coffee oil or something like that which somehow smooths the eyelid as you wear it. So it's a very good anti-aging eye shadow palette too. But I'm gonna start with this kind of tone right now and see how we feel. And this is the thing about make up. So okay, really important step. Because we're going into the crease. Okay. Look at my hand as if- Okay. It is, actually, look at my hand as if it's a person and you're talking to that person, okay. So you're gonna do this at home in your mirror. All right. And the person [UNKNOWN] The mirror that you're looking in to is the persons face that you're talking to. OK. The reason why that we do it this way is because if you close your eye and do your whole eye shadow, you'll open your eye and your eye shadow probably won't be where you want it to be. Interesting. So you've almost got to, unless you've got eyelids like you. Your eye lid, this floating crease was super easy only because your eye lid is totally wide open. Whereas my eyelid has a fold in it, and yours has a bit of a fold in it. So when you do have a fold, you really have to look straight into the mirror and start carving it out with your eyes wide open to see where it's gonna settle. And then you can kinda look down and kind go back and forth. Maybe it takes a little bit of a practice. 100% and also we were just talking an hour ago about how I was away on holiday and I think, I dunno, the heat or something made my eyes age. It's like, trying to put my makeup on and my eyelid had changed shape. And I was like, my gosh. And so you really do have to. Do I keep my eyes open right now? You do. Okay. So yeah. Basically, you really do have to just adjust it depending on your eyes. So someone's face. Mm-hm. So then keep your eyes exactly where they were. And I'm just gonna go right here. And then I'm gonna apply a little bit more of the darker contrasting one because it's not popping that much. But that's the beauty of makeup, you can always add a little bit more. And then look at me. Okay, yeah. So perfect, that's in the right place. So- So it's just along your crease. Along the crease. But you should always check In the mirror to make sure it's in the right place, and then you can basically start carving out that detail. And little movements are always quite helpful. Yeah, especially with this [CROSSTALK] Like I would never do this. Easy, yeah. [CROSSTALK] I would never do that. windshield wiper kind of motion I mean, if you have really taut skin on the eye, that's fine. But often, if you also don't do it that much, it's always better to just to do little tiny movements. This brush is really great for this too, because it's super pointy at the tip Is it a really dense brush tip, or is it kinda of a little bit more flexible? It's kind of a medium, medium-texture. So like And. Because that's what you want. If it's too dense, it can flick product everywhere. And if it's too soft, it won't, I don't know, it's just like, it's always good to go for like a medium texture that bends a little bit when you put it on the back of your hand. Got it. So this is like, is this stuff technically like the mapping out that- Mm-hm. 100 percent. So then look again. So for the second eye. This to go here. Imagine this is your friend on a night out. You're talking to her about what you did this week. [LAUGH] And then I'm gonna go right here. So yours is right above the actual crease. On you I would go right above where the fold is. But on somebody I'd probably do it really different. And on mine, my crease kind of, your crease is nice and round. Mine kind of is slopey. So it's a tricky thing, but it's do able. Now look down a little bit more. But I think these are kind of tips that you could use and apply for other techniques with makeup because it's all about kind of figuring out what your features are as opposed to just a cookie cutter mold of this is the way everybody else does their makeup, and that way you can tailor your makeup look To really suit your own individual features. Definitely. Where your crease sits or where your cheekbones are or whatever have you. Right. I think it's all about little tweaks you know. Right. We're not all the same so figuring out what works best for you. Totally. So now I'm going to take the brush that I blended initially with and I'm going to blend on the top line of where that eyeshadow was placed. Just to soften any edges. What shade did you use again? Was that the first one? I used the, so I blended the first, the cream with this, and I'm actually blending the powder with this as well. And I used this kind of rusty shade from the Becca palette. I love that. This one right here. [UNKNOWN] got my fingerprints on it. Shows you it's well loved. [LAUGH] Roxanne actually a few months ago, I feel like we were talking about eyeshadow shades, just like you should try- These warm tones? Yeah, and I had been wearing them ever since. I've been asked It's been a three month long pushing campaign of just every time I see Victoria like you need to be in a warm amaretto, tawny, warm Jane Birkin colors- 100%. Cuz she's got the bangs. Love it. She's got the hair and I just feel like she's modern Jane Birkin and we need to go with this This is her Jane Birkin summer. I appreciate the motivation, cuz I have definitely been stepping up my eye shadow game. So once you have carved out that first initial step, you can start building product with this brush. So now I'm really starting to, because I really want this be very soft and dreamy on the top,- Mm-hm. but we're going to sharpen it at the end by going back in with that cream eyeshadow- Okay. that we initially went in with Or maybe one that's a little bit of a different tone. But it's very much a layering technique just using little bits of product and sort of starting to build it. I also really, really love when this area in here is accentuated. Mm-hm. So if you look right where I'm going right now, this gives you a really sexy dreamy kind of Smoldery eye without looking like it's makeup. Because actually a lot of people have this effect from a shadow from the way their bones are on their face. Okay. So we can create that with makeup. Kinda like contoring in a sense for the eye. But it's like one of the most flattering areas that you can really go into. And it can definitely appear Heavier, but if you use the right tone and use the right kind of lightness of makeup then it can be really really beautiful. I think that that really suits Dos Torries. And especially if you've got big brows it really ties it all in together. And you have big brows my friend. [LAUGH] They're amazing. I think we found Victoria's newest daily makeup. Yeah, I think I'm going to have to try this. What I also like to do with the concealer bars that I may have used in my concealer application before or after or whatever. I like to just go in and clean up in between bits [INAUDIBLE]. Actually was going to ask, should you be doing your concealer before this? I wouldn't. I mean, I did on you, but It depends on how much you wear. If I'm gonna do a smokey eye on myself I'll always do my eye makeup first. Okay. Cuz you'll get fall down and you'll get makeup that [INAUDIBLE] on your face and it's always just a safer bet to do it after the fact but a brush with a little bit of concealer in it from beforehand. I wouldn't go ahead with fresh concealer on this now. It would just soften any edges and allow you to really manipulate. The way that it is wearing. We are actually going to take a reader question. [CROSSTALK] And pull it up. And we have a viewer who is asking Are you using a different color in the crease as the one under the brow? Good question. I didn't put anything under the brow yet, the one, no it's the same color, it's all the same tone. Interesting. It will appear different, slightly, because of the shadows on the eye making it look different. If that is what's happening through the camera. But no, it's all been the same. It's only two colors. It's the neutral eye shadow base right now. Okay. And just that shade. But this is really beautiful even by itself. You could totally stop here and throw on a red lip and have that really sexy kind of French Perusian vibe where the eyes just look topey, contoured and like sexy. Yeah. And then a red lip. But we're not gonna stop, we're gonna keep going. And I think too just like Reiterating about how you're applying it, like as someone who's sitting here and having it applied. I think I would always personally struggle with, I just always do too long and fast strokes, and then it's all over my face. And your strokes are just so light and soft, and then it's like that's what gets it under control Right, it's all about little bits. Mm-hm. You know? Yeah. Rome wasn't built in a day. Neither were these eyes, girl. [LAUGH] All right, so now I'm gonna take a darker brown and a different brush. This brush is a little bit softer and moves a little bit more. You can use an angled brow brush. You can use a soft angle brush for this, but I'm using this one. I love the Make Up For Ever brush. This is 206 and i'm using a dark brown from this palette which is a [UNKNOWN] palette and then I'm gonna have you do the same thing. So look right here. At my friend. Look at hey, I should have drawn a little face on my hand for you to talk to. You should have actually that would've been great. Okay so here's your pal. Okay So now I'm just gonna, it's really important to hold the brush like as is right now. So it should be directly pointed at your eye, almost like, what's the word? Just there, don't go into the side, go like here and start kind of going left and right a little bit. And almost like you can do it in a dot to dot fashion. So I'm actually gonna do both sides. Okay. So you can see that again. You're gonna find the way you want it to be. And also, you can fake where the crease is, you don't have to follow the crease, you can go higher if you want your eyes to, basically the more white, the more light that you see on the lid, the more open your eyes will look. The darker that you have that, the more sort of sultry and sunken in they will look and sexy. So Depends on what you're going for. We actually have a reader question for you Katie. Diana wants to know what colors would you recommend for the same look with brown eyes. Hi Diana. Good question. That is a great question. I would possibly, it depends. If you are doing, I think the same tones can totally work for people with brown eyes. I feel like brown eyes are very lucky because we can get away with everything especially. Well, the thing about brown eyes that I love is Plums, blues. Like really vivid bright jewel tones look incredible on brown eyes. Yeah, they do. It's almost like, and this is totally weird, but it's almost like they're neutral. It's like, because the eyes are so beautiful and dark you get this really bright beautiful pop of color, which like brings them to life. It's I love using rich jewel tones on those eyes. But, I mean, this palette is amazing for any eye color because it's got warms and it's got cools. But yeah, I would totally just say both cool tones- And you can do this with a jewel tone too. Which is great. Totally do it, you can do this with literally whatever you want. How do we feel about doing this in the blue? I think it would be kind of cool. it would be really cool and it'd be very, like, 80s. I did it once and I really liked it. We have. So quickly, don't, when you're doing this, because, when you're doing it on yourself, it's really important to hold your brush, like, kind of straight on the eye like this. If you go down like this, you're going to start shading the part of the lid that you want to keep white or that you want to keep lid. So you can either go in from the side, just like so. Once you've got your markings down. Or you can go like little tiny wiggly motions like this. We have actually another question that kind of parlays off of that, which is, our reader Devina wants to know if you have a hooded eyelid, do you use the same method, or how would you modify it? You do, you just, you kind of, I mean this is really Great for a hooded eyelid. You really have to just, that's the whole point of looking into the mirror. So looking into the mirror will help you find where yours needs to go. That's probably the best trick that I could tell everybody because I can only say so much without seeing somebody in person. And obviously when a makeup artist is doing it, it's different than when you're doing it yourself but I feel like once you get your method down and once you find your little tricks. And like when I'm doing my own because I have a hooded eyelid. I rest my pinky finger at certain places so that I've got more stability, more control. So I would definitely say always look straight in to the mirror, always check your work every few bits, every few places, bits of product that you've placed down. Or every few steps for sure. And while you're doing that, could you just define, for some of our readers who might not know, what a hooded eye is? I would not entirely, like I never know how to. Describe it like you- I would say the best way of describing it when the eyelid is,basically when or let's try it on you. So I would basically say that when a lot of this is hidden by this area here. So it's literally like you're wearing a hut. Kinda,kinda. Okay. It's actually this is less visible of all of this here is either dropped or just lips that way or you were born that way. But you can really create some beautiful techniques, beautiful eye makeup looks on [UNKNOWN] too. So it's not something that's a disadvantage, it's just you have to totally apply a different method. We were all just talking about how everything is different for each person. Right. It's all about just tweaking the The routine. Exactly. So with this brush. So now I'm working with this dark brown still just carving out more of a Kris. And I'm just doing really, really small, wiggly movements. I'm actually gonna wing it out a little bit and I'm gonna go right beneath where Victoria's brow bone is so that I get a sexy kind of feline vibe out of it. So it's not gonna be a flick here on the lash line, it's actually gonna be higher up which is very cool and editorial. But I was saying to the girls earlier that, the girls [UNKNOWN] YouTube, I was saying about how to keep this really fresh and modern because it is a look that is heavily done by A lot of the fabulous girls that we see on Instagram. And it's not for everybody. I love how it looks I do. But personally for me I love how it looks with fresh light skin. I think it keeps it really fresh and really modern. And it just keeps the focus on the eye. And it just keeps you on focused on what the makeup is versus there being all this foundation and all this contouring and all this highlighting and so on. I just like using softer makeup and softer techniques. Yeah. Exactly. So again like if you've gone a little over where you didn't want to go, like I just did now you can erase with a tiny bit of concealer on a brush. It is totally normal I do it all the time on myself. Like you'll find that you may place something down where you don't want it to go and then you can literally just go a different place and then you can take a Q-tip or. Your concealer brush and just erase it. I usually go for a dry q-tip, before I go for a wet q-tip because a wet q-tip will remove often too much,a dn you might not want all of that gone. So a dry q-tip just dusts away that excess pigment. Sometimes it doesnt feel nice, like the models backstage at fashion week often don't like this because they have their makeup done ten times a day for two months, so you can imagine how that feels. So that's why I don't like it. So actually, just for the sake of time, I'm just gonna finish this eye with the same color that I started with, which was soft ochre. No it wasn't, it was painterly from MAC. And I'm gonna go straight back in with t he same brush, and I'm just gonna really get my brush wet again, because the brush had dried out a little bit. And it's always really important to use the back of your hand, like don't be afraid. To use them as tools, because they totally are. So I'm gonna ask a question about when all this is said and done. Okay. And you're washing that brush, because it's a fairly cream Cream-based product. How do you clean that brush? I clean this brush in a brush soap. I love So, we should all be cleaning our brush At a 100%. Honestly, it's a good skin trick. You will have better skin if you wash your brushes more frequently. I [INAUDIBLE] would take this and a little bit of brush soap. I use a solid brush cleanser from Sephora, or you can use, I actually use the blender cleanser from the eBlender that's really good. And you just basically soil it with the soap and then just rinse it, but always [INAUDIBLE] Whenever you're washing your brushes. Always, always, always hold them that way down underneath a running faucet or in a cup of water. Because if you go like that for any moment, your bristles will start becoming loose. Because the loose will become loose. Wow, okay. That's important. So that's the most important trick. So now just then, it would change the shape and structure of your brush, which then, I mean correct me if I'm wrong, but wouldn't that then. Change the potential look that you're going for. Yeah, 100%. Okay. I mean I even, I watched a video once where I was actually just while I'm doing this. So when you are going back in to define with your cream, you're gonna take the product back from where you started so actually close fully for me. Okay. If you were doing this on yourself you can totally just tilt your head back. And you will find it very easy to see. And that's a trick for Mascara too. If you find it easy to get mascara on the skin, like just tilt your head back and look down into a mirror and you'll get much more visibility of the eyelid. So instead, cuz some people find it hard to do [UNKNOWN] eye makeup because they can't close their eyes and do what they're doing. So I would just tilt back and just paint it on like this. That's a really good tip. I also always get mascara on my Close right? And I always wait, yeah. But and as far as I always do that too. So for mascara, when you're cleaning up, always wait until your mascara is dry before you clean up because you're better off easier. So now I'm jut using the edge of this brush. If you take a closer look, I'm just using the edge of this brush to really define that line right under here. You can even take the point of this brush The firmer the brush, the better. But not too firm because it will pull the skin too much in a way that you probably don't want. And then once you've really crafted out the line underneath the contour, you can then just kinda whack it on. [BLANK_AUDIO] And that's nice to use it here too and just brighten up. [BLANK_AUDIO] And you can always go back and forth with the brushes and with the things that you're using. And to just kind of touch up here or there where you need. Exactly. Okay, and I have a question about Roxanne's eye makeup and maybe Changing gears here cuz you're doing, you're finishing up mine but what did you use to get that cuz it's amazing. My God. And the line looks so precise. So I hadn't used it before which was a risky thing on my part I literally never used it until I used it on Roxanne this morning. It's a Make up Forever Aqua I think it's called Aqua Seal Aqua Excel? Maybe, but it's a cream. It's in a pot. Okay, but it's amazing, and it's so liquidy, and I just literally mixed it on the back of my hand with a super, super pointy liner brush. And it just gave me the most awesome precision, which is great. I think it's called aqua something. I love An eyeliner brush Yeah. They're amazing. Cuz I think that, It's hard for me to get, like I'm not very good with drawing a precise cat eye. Like, I will always go for a more smokey look before I do something that's like, a little bit more clean and precise Right But I think that having a tool and having a brush like that is like Mm-hm It just gives you so much more with like control. Totally. So to tie all this together. Look up for me. I'm just going to take the dark brown. Tap off the excess. And I'm just going to pop it a little bit under the lash line. This is a really nice brush for this because it's very very soft. It probably feels like a kitten is licking your eyelid. This has really made Victoria's eye color pop just in like the last Few minutes. Those warm brown. Yeah. Warm browns on light eyes, honestly don't ever be afraid that it's gonna make your eyes look red. It actually won't. It'll make them look brighter and more beautiful. That's my natural kind of go to is a warm brown. I actually often wear this shade from this palette which is actually a full on red called amethyst. I love it. What brush are you using? The same one that I used to contour [INAUDIBLE] Okay. Cool. So, I'm just connecting it in. It's like, when I do my makeup on a daily basis, I'll probably use five brushes throughout the whole thing. And I often keep a towel on my lap that I'll wipe brushes throughout kind of thing, that I'll just get to make the most That's really good on you. My gosh. You look so 60s, sassy and 60s. That is so cool, that part. [UNKNOWN] And it's a totally different way to wear color. Yeah, I also feel like That bottom part is like what connects- Totally, 100%. connects the look, and makes it more fluid. And you should never be afraid of a bottom lash, smokey lash. Because I used to wear it a lot by itself in black, and when I look back at myself in pictures, I'm like, what? That was really harsh. [LAUGH] That was like my high school look,- Right. was black eyeliner,- Yeah. just on the bottom. I didn't even do my top look And I didn't blend and yeah. Right. But it's so flattering though. Yeah. Like in softer shades. Like in soft shades it really gives you that instant doe eye look which is just really beautiful. Mm-hm. Yeah. Yeah. so how, obviously, I already have mascara on. But would you Finish it off with mascara? I would finish it off with mascara. If I was gonna use lashes, I would do individuals to keep it fresh and light and fluttery. But yeah, I would totally finish with mascara and a little bit of a gloss and a powder and do a little bit of a highlight on the cheek. Cool. And cream. To keep it a little fresh. Thank you for this look. There we go. Well, it seems that is all the time that we have, so. [INAUDIBLE] we're gonna wrap things up. This was so much fun. Thanks Thanks for joining us [UNKNOWN] Thanks for watching. Bye. [BLANK_AUDIO]