Bob Hope once said there are 86 golf courses in Palm Springs, “and Jerry Ford never knows which one he’s going to play until his second shot."
In California’s Coachella Valley, Hope was known for both his humor and his houses, particularly the midcentury modern, John Lautner-designed home that was the venue for Nicolas Ghesquière’s latest resort collection for Louis Vuitton, shown on Wednesday night. Many people say the house looks like a volcano, or a spaceship, or something from the future, all of which play well into Ghesquière’s aesthetic oeuvre, so it probably was not as strange as it sounds that 800 people traveled to the desert just to see one collection. Kanye West, Catherine Deneuve, and Michelle Williams all made the trek.
So too did InStyle’s fashion director Melissa Rubini, who reports a big change is in the air from the very short silhouette that Ghesquière introduced in his earlier Vuitton collections (and since has been seen from just about every other designer on the planet). The new collection featured “mostly long skirts,” she notes, citing the flowy, ankle-grazing styles that opened the collection in a series of oversize chain prints. Contrasts appeared throughout the collection, notably in the combinations of soft, printed pants and long-sleeve tops with tougher trims of leather belts that wrapped around the body, or zip-front panels as breastplates. Some of his dresses had the qualities of reptile scales, or beautiful basket weaves. Rubini’s top pick was a long, one-sleeved dress with a wildly concentrated jewel-like print.
After Chanel’s show last week in Seoul, and Vuitton’s in Palm Springs, the next stop on fashion’s big resort tour comes next week in the South of France, when Dior designer Raf Simons presents his collection in another famous house with a futuristic design—the so-called Bubble House that is the vacation home of fellow designer Pierre Cardin.