In an ideal world, we wouldn't have to do very much to achieve the ideal brow shape. The natural curves of your arches should already adapt to match your face, but because we all had tweezers back in high school, things don't always pan out quite so well. To help determine the way your brows should lie on your face, we asked makeup artist and brow expert Zoey Van Jones to tell us which shapes are most flattering for heart, oval, square, and round faces—but not before she outlined two forms your arches should never be. "The most common error is the tadpole shape, when an individual will tweeze the strays underneath and stop at the front pod, which results in a 'tadpole' appearance," she explains. "Also, if one carves too much arch in the front bridge, they can look unbalanced or angry."
One rule of thumb is to fill in your brows before picking up the tweezers so that you don't go overboard (again), but we recommend leaving any major shaping moves up to the professionals. Better yet, bring a screenshot of the face shape below that's the closest to your own, and ask your technician to mirror the appearance. Keep reading to find your perfect brow match.
1. If You Have a Heart-Shaped Face
Consider yourself lucky if you have a heart-shaped face like Kerry Washington's—it's the easiest to map out of the bunch. Van Jones recommends simply following the way your arches naturally rise and fall.
2. If You Have a Round Face
Rounder shapes like Selena Gomez's can play with their placement to give off the illusion of more definition. "Try extending the bridge as long as possible, moving the arch out slightly," says Van Jones. "This will make the face appear more heart-shaped."
3. If You Have a Square Face
Because square faces like Sofia Vergara's are already very defined, a softer shape to your brow is key in balancing the effect. "Don't extend the arch farther than the natural turn, which can look more masculine on a square face," Van Jones says.
4. If You Have an Oval or Long Face
Whether you have an oval shape like Jessica Alba's, or your face is slightly longer, the same rules apply to each—don't go too hard on the arch. "You want to keep the arch more shallow with this shape," Van Jones explains. "Raising it too much will exaggerate the length of the face."