Swan Gallet/WWD/REX
Eric Wilson
Oct 05, 2016 @ 12:45 pm

Down the runway at Louis Vuitton this morning at the end of Paris Fashion Week was celebrity row. Adele Exarchopoulos, Sophie Turner, Alicia Vikander, Jennifer Connelly, and a half-dozen rising stars all wore the lug-soled black heels that artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière introduced for fall in what looks to be the shoe of the season. It's easy to summarize the designer's impact on fashion through accessories for having already introduced hit after hit in his short tenure.

It's all about that @louisvuitton boot for fall. #pfw

A photo posted by Eric Wilson (@ericwilsonsays) on

Now comes big-time fashion. Ghesquière's approach thus far has largely been about building the foundations of a Vuitton ready-to-wear wardrobe, beginning with his hugely influential abbreviated A-line skirts a few years back. The fall season was more casual and streetwear focused, with some critics bemoaning a lack of design ideas there to chew on. But for spring, Ghesquière responded with a powerhouse lineup that started with an elegant gray knit dress worn and a series of light dressy ensembles made of layered lace pieces, all worn with Western-style boots made of different materials front to back, and sometimes topped with an iridescent leather perfecto. He concluded with a parade of red carpet dresses that really addressed Hollywood's craving for sheer, but in an elegant way that is rarely seen with such revealing dresses. These looked almost as if they were made of mesh, with dot appliqués and well-placed panels that gave some surface interest, in addition to needed coverage.

Next season, look for lots of chic cowgirls at this show.

Getty (2); Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage

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You could argue that Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Kenzo also considered the trend toward celebrity over-exposure the night before with their playful Studio 54–inspired collection. Their runway included a series of living statues comprised of naked models with admirably diverse body types, all painted in pastel body paints by MAC Cosmetics. The clothes were cool as usual, especially big sweatshirt dresses with blown up fashion images, but the downside is that I couldn't post anything on Instagram for all the penises in my photographs.

Antonio de Moraes Barros Filho/WireImage; Richard Bord/Getty

By the last show—Miu Miu—which capped a four-week season of nonstop spring collections, I was relieved to see Miuccia Prada focus on retro swimwear and adorably colorful coats and send out the models with hats that looked like swim caps made of plastic shower flowers. Gigi Hadid's bloomer shorts were so short they made her already long legs into exclamation points for the end of what was, let's face it, an incredibly newsy season. It's nice to be able to smile at the its close.

Alain Jocard/AFP (3)

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